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Location
Kalkan and Area.
Once a tiny fishing village, Kalkan has become a small, high class resort on Turkey’s southern Riviera. The steep and winding cobbled streets of the old town centre are flanked by whitewashed houses, and make their way down to the pretty picturesque harbour, generally full of the famous gulets and smaller caiques ready to take you on a magical day trip around the bay and beyond for a perfect day out.
Exploring the narrow alleyways you will discover the old part of Kalkan, quiet and peaceful, with the occupants either inside or busy with their stalls elsewhere, leaving sleeping cats to bask in the heat of the day or seek the shade of the ever-present bougainvillea. In the evening the streets twinkle with lights and the gentle buzz of restaurants and shops selling wonderful jewellery made of silver, turquoise and precious stones, carpet bazaars ready to show you their wares, and to welcome you with a glass of Turkish tea, and a vast array of artefacts as well as clothing, shoes, and of course Turkish Delight. The shops are open all day and long into the night along with a few bars and nightclubs nearer the sea front offering late night entertainment for those who want it, but without the noise and brashness of larger resorts.
There are a multitude of cafes and restaurants and excellent food is a hallmark of the resort. Delicious locally grown food is available in an endless variety of menus and price range. Fabulous fresh fish is plentiful, and vegetarians are well catered for in all eateries. Some restaurants offer the traditional Turkish seating of kilim floor cushions and there you will be served delicious local dishes followed by Turkish tea or coffee and the freshest, soft,Turkish Delight. There is a small shingle beach next to the harbour, which is perfect for swimming and sunbathing, but a trip in a gulet or any other form of water transport has to be the best and most fascinating way to discover the beauty of this unspoilt coastline and waters.
There are a few beach clubs just a short boat ride or taxi journey from Kalkan harbour, so there are plenty of opportunities to snorkel, dive and swim off rocks in the amazingly clear waters. There is also plenty for children to enjoy with banana boating and doughnut rubber ring rides available at some of the beach clubs. The weekly market is a must-see. You can buy almost anything, but it is also worth visiting just to see the huge piles of fresh vegetables, the multi-coloured baskets of herbs and spices laid out, and to hear the patter of the clothes sellers. You can also visit the local Hamam for an excellent massage and thorough soaping, a perfect start to your relaxing holiday in Kalkan.
Further Afield
Kalkan is at the heart of what was ancient Lycia and lies within easy access of archeological sites, many of which are set in beautiful undeveloped surroundings.
There are the magical ruins of ancient Patara, the famous Lycian city complete with amphitheatre and temple complexes. From the ruins you will find the famous Patara Beach, which offers 18 kilometres of golden sand, and is renowned for being one of the world’s most beautiful and unspoiled beaches, and where many enjoy horse riding during the early morning or evening light. The stunning Kapatas beach is within a 20 minute dolmus or car ride and well worth the eighty or so steps down to its pebble and sand beach. It is set at the mouth of a huge gorge, on the beautiful coastal road to Kas.
Kas is the next town to the east of Kalkan, a twenty minute, stunning coastal drive. It has a pretty centre, with many interesting shops, and a 3000 year old tomb of an ancient Lycian King at the top of one of the main streets, so not your average high street! There is also a small complex of rock tombs which you can climb up to with fabulous views of the sun drenched peninsular. The wide harbour hosts many cafes and restaurants to relax in and watch the boats and yachts sail in and out of the harbour, or the paragliders as they gracefully land.
Other places to visit include Pinara, Letoon, Xanthos and Tlos, These are all ancient Lycian towns or temples and at Tlos you will find many extraordinary rock tombs or sarcophagi, the most important being that of Bellerophon, who famously fought the three headed Chimera and rode Pegasus, the magical winged horse.
Xanthos, even closer to Kalkan, was the largest and most prominent Lycian city, and despite being looted by the British Museum in the nineteenth century, contains some wonderful remains.
Saklikent Gorge. This deep and very narrow gorge stretches for about thirteen kilometres. Nearby are floating divan cafes, ready to welcome you for tea, cold drinks or something stronger. They can also rpovide full meals.
Many different water activities are available at Kalkan: scuba diving, snorkeling, water skiing, jet-skiing are just a few. Another way to explore the area inland is to hire a jeep and drive high up into the hills, discovering the rich vegetation and mass of lakes, streams and tiny villages where you can stop and sample some delicious homemade dishes, feeling as if you are the only tourist ever to have been there and experiencing the warmth and hospitality of the Turkish people.
Finally
I was once asked what it was about Turkey that I liked the most. Was it the sun? The clean beaches? The incredibly clear, azure sea? The lazy days? The fantastic food? The astonishing ancient ruins?
It was none of those, I answered. It’s the people. They are quiet, demure, ever-helpful, generous and kind. They have a wonderful sense of humour, and if I can’t have them as neighbours, I can at least enjoy their company when I’m in their country. I hope you will find them like this too. Have a wonderful holiday.
